To alleviate the over chlorination and start fresh, remove the chlorine source.

• Store chlorine away from children, pets or other chemicals.
• Run the unit empty until the chlorine reading has dropped to 1ppm.
• Reinsert your chlorine and follow the directions for achieving the correct dial setting for your pool.

Your filtration time has an impact on your chlorine levels. NSPI standards call for a 1 to 1.5 turn over rate per day, meaning every gallon of water should travel through the pump 1 to 1.5 times per day. To calculate the proper pump run time for your pool based on general NSPI guidelines you will first need to know how many gallons of water your pool holds. With this information, you can then determine the proper pump run time for your pool.

Most pools run between 8 and 12 hours per day. Installing a timer can make life much easier and filtration time more consistent. Remember when your pump is running, you are continuously putting chlorine into the pool.

The proper dial setting is important for maintaining the correct chlorine level. See your manual or click here for directions on how to achieve the correct setting. For a quick lesson, begin with 1ppm chlorine residual in the pool after shocking. Then add chlorine to your unit and use the chart in your manual for an initial dial setting by lining up your pool size, pump size in horsepower, and filtration time per day. Set the dial and monitor daily until the level remains within your desired chlorine level. Increase or decrease the dial setting by ½ increments only per day until the proper setting is reached.

Chlorine demand is anything in the water or environment that depletes chlorine including:

• Weather (rain or high heat which raises the temperature of the water)
• The number of swimmers using the pool per day
• Algae forming in the pool
• Landscaping chemicals containing nitrates

During times of low demand the control dial may need to be turned down or over chlorination could result.

• Pump Size: For best performance, the pump should be rated for between 4 0 and 70gpm. The control dial setting chart contains NR (Not Recommended) if the pump size is considered too large or too small for your size pool.
• Eyeball Fitting in Return Jet: For best performance the back pressure on the sanitation unit should be between 3 and 8psi. High back pressure means a high water level inside the unit so more tablets are wetted. Changing to a larger eyeball fitting will correct this.
• Off-line Unit Plumbed In-line: Inside the off-line unit is a built in diverter that pushes water up into the unit. Therefore it is meant for use with lower flow rates. Installing this unit in-line will cause too much water to be pushed into the unit resulting in over chlorination.
• Above-Ground Unit Installed on In-Ground Pool: This can work if flow rates are 40gpm or less but often the hydraulics of in-ground pools put too much stress on the control dial that was designed for above-ground pools.

Examples of some special features include:

• In-Floor Cleaner
• Attached Spa
• Fountain
• Special Return Jet
• Light on Return Jet

If In-Floor Cleaning, Attached Spa and/or Fountain are installed on your pool you should be aware that these special features put a lot of stress on the sanitation unit. When they turn on, they create a spike in the pressure, which causes a force of water to shoot up higher than normal inside the sanitation unit; therefore a special installation is recommended. Click here for special installation diagrams.

If Special Return Jets and/or Lighted Return Jets are installed on your pool, please note that high pressure occurs when the fitting at the return jet is much smaller than the pipe that is attached to it causing more water to back up into the sanitation unit. Hence the term "back pressure." Special features attached to return jets often cause an increase in back pressure, which increases the water level inside the unit, which often results in over chlorination.

Although a part is seldom the reason for over chlorination, if no other reason is found, there are two parts that should be checked at this point:

• A pressure relief valve is installed inside your unit at the base. It is a clear plastic piece approximately 1 inch long with a plug in the center and two arms attached to pegs. Check to see if it is loose or missing. This provides another avenue for water to reach the chlorine. If loose or missing, replace.
• The control dial could have a small crack that is allowing more water to enter per setting. You can pull the dial out and check. If okay, lubricate the o-rings and replace. If cracked or damaged, replace.

• Make sure your Chlorine Bac Pac is not empty. Replace if it is. The Chlorine Bac Pac lasts on average 7-10 days in an In Ground pool and 2-3 weeks in an Above Ground pool.
• Sometimes with low water flow tablets can stick together and not erode properly. Shake the Bac Pac to make sure the tablets have fallen into the bottom area where the water will pass through.

Your filtration time has an impact on your chlorine levels. NSPI standards call for a 1 to 1.5 turn over rate per day, meaning every gallon of water should travel through the pump 1 to 1.5 times per day. To calculate the proper pump run time for your pool based on general NSPI guidelines you will first need to know how many gallons of water your pool holds. With this information, you can then determine the proper pump run time for your pool.

Most pools run between 8 and 12 hours per day. Installing a timer can make life much easier and filtration time more consistent. Remember when your pump is running, you are continuously putting chlorine into the pool.

The proper dial setting is important for maintaining the correct chlorine level. See your manual or click here for directions on how to achieve the correct setting. For a quick lesson, begin with 1ppm chlorine residual in the pool after shocking. Then add chlorine to your unit and use the chart in your manual for an initial dial setting by lining up your pool size, pump size in horsepower, and filtration time per day. Set the dial and monitor daily until the level remains within your desired chlorine level. Increase or decrease the dial setting by ½ increments only per day until the proper setting is reached.

Chlorine demand is anything in the water or environment that depletes chlorine including:

• Weather (rain or high heat which raise the temperature of the water).
• The number of swimmers using the pool per day
• Algae forming in the pool
• Landscaping Chemicals containing nitrates
• During times of peak demand the control dial may need to be turned up or the pool should be shocked more often to get the chlorine level back in line.

A clogged filter or pump will slow down the water flow through the chlorine. Remove all debris from pump basket, skimmer basket and backwash or clean filter regularly.

• Pump size: for best performance, the pump should be rated for at least 20gpm and ideally 40gpm. The control dial setting chart contains NR (Not Recommended) if the pump size is considered too large or too small for your size pool.
• Eyeball fitting in return jet: for best performance the back pressure on the sanitation unit should be between 3 and 8psi. Low back pressure means a low water level inside the unit so fewer tablets are wetted. Changing to a smaller eyeball fitting will correct this.
• In-line unit plumbed Off-line: inside the off-line unit is a built in diverter that pushes water up into the unit. An in-line unit does not contain this diverter and thus will not work properly if installed off-line.

If your chlorine level is very high, it could bleach the test regent showing making it look like there is no chlorine in the pool. Take a reading from water directly from the return jet to test this.

Test kits lose their effectiveness over time. If using an old test kit, replace and retest the water.

Check filter for proper operation and clean if dirty. Look at the pressure gauge. If it’s more than 10 pounds above its normal operating pressure or if water flow out of the return jets is sluggish (i.e. two-thirds of its normal force), your filter is probably dirty and should be cleaned. After cleaning, run filtration system continuously until water is clear.

Additional filter problems:

• Channeling in sand filters: Caused by dirty sand contaminated with oils. Replace sand.
• Back wash valves not operating properly: Leaks cloudy water through the returns after backwashing the pool. Replace valve.
• Rips in DE Support Fabric: Results in DE being put into the pool water. Replace DE element.
• Torn Cartridges: Debris particles are not stopped by the filter and reenter the pool. Replace Cartridge.

Additional circulation problems:

• Hair and Lint Strainer is filled with leaves and other debris reducing circulation rate. Clean out.
• Skimmer basket is filled with leaves and other debris reducing circulation rate. Clean out.
• Suction side leak causes air to enter the pump and filter resulting in poor circulation that could result in cloudy water. Repair leak.

Have your pool dealer test the pool water for pH, free chlorine, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness. Click here for water balance guidelines.

The more people in the water; the more contaminants are in the water giving it a hazy look. This usually means your chlorine was depleted by heavy use. Shock the pool. If cloudy water is extreme, a clarifier or flocculants may be used. Vacuum up settled solids from pool floor.

If your chlorine level is very low or zero, it cannot keep up with the demand of the environment or use. Shock the pool and reinstate the maintenance level of chlorine.

Go to Under Chlorination for possible causes of low chlorine levels.

• Green Algae. Most common algae growth. Forms in green patches on pool and spa surfaces. Can be removed by brushing, but must be treated with chemicals.
• Yellow or Mustard Algae. It creates a slimy layer that guards it from sanitizers. When brushed, yellow algae is removed easily but returns quickly. Yellow Algae can set in on any pool or spa. Chlorine may slow its growth, but will not completely kill this strain of Algae. An algaecide must be used to effectively kill and prevent this algae.
• Black Algae. Algae with dark blue, black and green color. Grown in colonies as small dots. Forms a protective layer over itself visible mostly in white plaster.
• Pink Algae. This pink slime is really a form of water mold and not algae. The condition looks and sounds worse than it is. The mold has the appearance of shredded tissue paper in the water. The primary cause is a soil bacteria that is harmless to humans.

• Insufficient sanitizer. Make sure your chlorine level is not too low.
• Possible chemical imbalance. Adjust your pH to the recommended range.
• Circulation pattern of the pool. Adjusting the return jets can help minimize dead spots where circulation is poor.
• Improperly operating pool equipment. Check your pump and filter for any problems.
• Environmental issues related to the weather or the introduction of other chemicals like phosphates or organic waste such as perspiration or urine.

1. Circulate the pool water for 24 hours continuously while fighting the algae problem.

2. Raise the concentration of free available chlorine to 3-5 ppm with a non-stabilized chlorine shock.

3. Check the pool pH and balance to 7.2 – 7.6.

4. Brush and vacuum the algae at least twice daily.

5. After brushing and vacuuming, clean or backwash the filter to remove the dead algae from the filter media.

6. When the pool returns to a clear and algae free condition, return to normal operating mode.

7. Black algae and mustard algae can leave stains behind on the pool surfaces. If the stains are present, maintain the chlorine residual at about 2 ppm and keep brushing the stains. If they do not lighten within two weeks, consult your pool professional.

FROG® BAM™ is your Algae Knock-Out Champ. Now you can sit back, and relax with the piece of mind that FROG BAM is hard at work in your pool. The unique mineral formula is tailor-made for preventing algae up to 90 days.

For POOL FROG® users, FROG® BAM™ has a unique dispensing method for even distribution throughout the pool. When used with the complete POOL FROG® system, King Technology offers a No Algae Guarantee! Just follow the 90/90 Rule:

• Remove your chlorine Bac Pac.
• Insert FROG® BAM™ inside the Mineral Reservoir. Push down to puncture the seal.
• Replace cap, set dial to maximum and turn on your pump. Allow FROG® BAM™ to circulate into your pool water for 90 minutes.
• Turn off your pump.
• Remove and discard FROG® BAM™ cartridge.
• Replace chlorine Bac Pac back inside the Mineral Reservoir.
• Repeat every 90 days.

FROG® BAM™ works great for New Water® and Perform-Max™ users, too. Simply pour into the pool as you walk around the perimeter. You'll still have algae protection for 90 days but the No Algae Guarantee is only applicable for POOL FROG® users. Click here for more information about FROG BAM.